Follow in the footsteps of US resident Saul Schwartz as he learns what Portugal’s capital has to offer on a gastronomic level. What options are available to vegetarians and vegans in a land that prides itself on its plant-based cuisine? codFish, meat and poultry dishes? As Saul embarks on a gastronomic journey through this city shaped by its ties to Brazil, he shares his tips and suggestions for vegetarians, vegans and health foodies visiting Lisbon.
By Saul Schwartz
My wife Fern and I spent four days in Lisbon and Sintra during October, spending two days in the historic center of Lisbon, one day in the beautiful Belém area, and one day in Sintra National Park. You can read all about What to see in Lisbon and Belem in this articleand Tips for visiting Sintra in this article.
Here are our recommendations for experiencing Lisbon’s food and Portuguese flavours.
Vegetarian food tasting in Portugal
On the last day of our trip, we enjoyed an exceptional vegan lunch experience with local chef Mateus. We arrived at 12:30pm for a two-hour multi-course vegan lunch. The lunch was hosted by the chef and his twin brother at the Ambiente Hostel on Avenida Almirante Reis 86, near the Anjos metro station. We booked this event through Airbnb EventsCost 45 euros per person plus tip. Drinks were included in the menu. The chef also advertises Eat With website.
The chef had redecorated the hostel’s dining room to give it a beautiful atmosphere with paintings on the walls and tables. Although the room seats 20 people, we had a private meal alone with the chef. The chef welcomed us and prepared colorful tables, homemade bread and a variety of sauces, including jam and olives. The next course was a delicious soup, followed by a main course of potatoes and the best dessert we had in Lisbon.
Fern and I really loved the traditional Portuguese meal that the chef had specially prepared as a vegetarian meal, with local atmosphere and flavours. Chef Mateus used vegetables and fruits from small farmers and local markets. This lunch was one of the highlights of our time in Lisbon.
We had a lot of fun interacting with the chef who moved to Portugal from Brazil in 2015. The meal revealed his true passion – cooking great meals in the kitchen. We had many nice conversations throughout the meal.
Lunch at Organi Chiado – voted the best vegetarian restaurant in Lisbon
Our tour guide Gabriel recommended this exceptional vegetarian restaurant in the Chiado district. For lunch on the first day of our trip, we ate at one of the outdoor tables on the outdoor terrace and enjoyed exceptional salads with wonderful vegetables. The menus vary daily, using seasonal produce and this was a great option for us for healthy and natural food. Most of the products are of Portuguese origin, with high quality organic ingredients.
Opened in 2016, this restaurant has been voted the best vegetarian restaurant in Lisbon several times. Located on the historic steps of Calcada Nova de Sao Francisco, it has an indoor dining room. Prices are very reasonable.
Dining al fresco at Saldanha Mar Restaurant
Although the prices were a little higher than average for Lisbon, the food was good. We enjoyed dinner outside on the second night of our trip. The meal started with olives and bread. We then had a mixed salad with lettuce and vegetables. The swordfish was particularly tender and tasty and the potatoes were served with the main course. The staff were very friendly.
Saldanha Mar Restaurant is located inside the Doubletree Hotel on Rua Engenhiero Vieira da Silva 2. As is customary in Lisbon, dinner doesn’t start before 7pm and stays open until 10pm.
Vitamins – Boost your health while in Lisbon
There are many of these casual restaurants in Lisbon. On the third night of our trip, we ate at the Chiado branch. We were able to choose from a delicious array of fresh vegetables for our salads.
This restaurant promotes a healthy lifestyle, and the restaurant’s mission is to raise vitamin levels, while lowering cholesterol. We ordered food at the counter from the helpful staff. The prices were very reasonable.
Brazilian Cafe – Classic Cafe
Located in the Chiado district, this is one of the oldest and most famous cafes in Lisbon. This historic cafe was once a meeting place for intellectuals. On the last day of our trip, we sat outside and enjoyed coffee and tea. A Brasileira Cafe was opened in 1905, by Adiano Teles, who came to Portugal from Brazil. He was the first to sell coffee in Portugal. We were told that he initially gave away free coffee for a few months to encourage Lisbonites to drink coffee!
The ornate Parisian-style interior attracted lawyers, doctors, teachers, writers and artists. The popular café became a place for artistic and literary gatherings. We sat next to the statue outside the café of the author Fernando Pessoa, who was a regular.
Markets – Shop like a local
There are markets all over Lisbon that are primarily for locals to buy food. The one near our hotel, Mercardo 31 de Janeiro, was well worth a stroll. The market had many stalls selling fish and seafood, including the famous dried cod. Other stalls were filled with colorful vegetables from local produce. It was fun to get lost for a while in the vibrant colors and smells. This is the main market in the Saldanha neighborhood.
Starbucks
This chain has branches in Lisbon, including the airport. The menu is a little different than the one in the US. The Venti iced tea (the larger size) is much smaller than the US iced tea and costs €4.65.
Mini markets – for snacks during the day
We went to several small shops to buy food to take with us during the day. The prices were reasonable, but the stock was limited.
If you would like to follow in Saul’s footsteps in and around Lisbon, visit What to see in Lisbon and Belem in this articleand Tips for visiting Sintra in this articleTo discover more exciting places near Lisbon, go to A real Jurassic park in the middle of Portugal – Only one hour drive from Lisbon.
Saul lives in Alexandria, Virginia, and has lived in the Washington, D.C. area since 1984. He loves traveling throughout Europe with his wife and family, and especially enjoys interacting with the locals and learning about life in their city and country.
Saul has previously shared his thoughts on travel. Learn his story about Tour of South West Ireland – Limerick, Clare and Galway Or check out his trip to Modern Athens – Beyond the Acropolis Or his infatuation with Vatican: Rome of the Popes.
